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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.